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New Zealand part II: Skydiving, LOTR, and volcanoes

New Zealand's capital Wellington was our first stop on the north island, where we met our newest backpacking visitor - Freya's cousin Rosie.

Despite being the capital city, windy Wellington is still relatively small and easy to scoot around (although it is super steep!).

Our first stop was the WETA workshop, the New Zealand animation company best known for its work on Lord of the Rings - one of many LoTR-related trips, including the spot where they filmed the Hobbit Hideaway scene on Mount Victoria (as recreated by Freya and Rosie) later that day.

The city also has a super interesting museum with an earthquake simulator, and an amazing exhibition of Gallipoli.

Back in the car, we drove up the west coast to Stratford - the start of the beautiful Forgotten World Highway.

The 160km road is the country's quietest highway and meanders over stunning hills and gorges that are speckled with mystery, such as the 'bridge that leads to nowhere', and an eerie tunnel.

The only sign of civilisation along the way is the town of Whangamomona, a self-declared republic with a population of around 40 people! It's mostly just run-down homes from the early 1900s, although there is a hotel where you can get your passport stamped..

We found life again in the vibrant town of Taupo, known for its huge lake that's nearly the same size of Singapore (the lake is actually a massive sinkhole caused by the Taupo Volcano, responsible for two of the biggest eruptions in recent times).

It was also the spot we'd chosen to do our most extreme adventure yet - jumping out of the sky from 12,000 feet.

After getting into our gear, we were soon boarded into a small jump plane and soared into the blue sky with Freya perched on the floor right next to the exit door (she had been picked to jump first).

We were both actually feeling pretty good, admiring the amazing lake views from our vantage point. That was right up until the moment the hatch was hauled open and we were told to swing our legs over and outside the plane.

Neither my brain or legs wanted that to happen, but after overcoming the resistance, we were told to smile for the camera before being shoved into the sky.

After a full 360 degree roll I fell into a facedown position before hitting the relentless force of wind - slightly trapping my breath as I lifted my chin up and looked past the sprawling mass of blue into the mountains.

It took a few seconds for my brain to work out what had just happened, but the freefall absolutely rocked. We were so high up it didn't really feel like we were hurtling to the ground.

After around 30 seconds the parachute was pulled, allowing me to properly catch my breath and look around while we floated back to earth. Job done.

We spent the next day hiking to the impressive Haka Falls (200,000 litres of water flow over its edge every second!) before relaxing in the natural hot pools further upstream.

Back on the adventure trail, Freya and Rosie were up at 5am to complete the epic Tongario Crossing - a 19km walk crossing three active volcanoes, one of which you will know better as Mount Doom from LoTR.

It took them six hours in total, with beautiful scenery from the towering volcano peaks to super-blue steaming pools. For a reward we tucked into Dominoes (they have pizzas for £2.50 a go in NZ!) and prosecco back at Lake Taupo.

(Tongario is notoriously hard-going on your knees, and lots of people turn back every day because it's abit too much. Having recurring knee problems after our Adam's Peak hike back in Sri Lanka, I regretfully opted out!)

We saw more geothermal goodies in Rotorua, which is bubbling with so much volcanic activity that it stinks of rotten eggs.

Highlights included thermal parks where you could bathe your feet, erupting mud pools and steaming thermal pools. We also walked around the calming Redwood Forest.

Next we visited Tauranga where we stayed with extended family Joanna and Steve (Rosie's aunty and uncle).

Blessed with blue skies, we enjoyed fish and chips on the beach, and took on the mighty waves with a bodyboard.

From here we also did a day trip to Hobbiton - on Freya's bucket list. The sprawling farm has kept the colourful hobbit holes, buried into the rolling hills, from the Hobbit film set and turned it into a tourist attraction. But it truly feels like you've been whisked into Tolkien's magical world.

Back on the road we travelled up the east coast to Coromandel where we spent a few hours walking to the wave-battered Cathedral cove, a hidden beach under forested cliffs, and then onto the famed hot water beach.

For a couple of hours around low tide every day, hundreds of beach-goers armed with spades dig into the sand to create their own natural hot pools.

Joining the throng we found a spot with bubbling-hot water and got to work, enjoying an hour in the 'spa' before the incoming tide swept away our hard work.

Next was Otorohanga where we finally saw our first kiwis in a conservation park, along with the inquisitive kea parrots and the tuatara - the last survivors of reptiles that scuttled the earth alongside dinosaurs.

We then visited the magnificent caves in Waitomo. After a tour around the magnificent underground structures we boarded a boat in the pitch black to see thousands of glow worms light up the ceiling.

We finished our trip in Waiuka where we stayed with Liz and Keith (Rosie's other aunt and uncle, and also got to meet her granddad Dirk and his partner Shirley), before exploring the black sand beach, a day trip to Matakana for a hidden beach and a great outdoor sculpture exhibition.

We also managed to catch up with some travelling friends from India, Ben and Laura, who were also in NZ, for some hiking.

Our last day was spent with our tour-guide-for-the-day Kelly (Rosie's cousin) who showed us around Auckland, including watching people throw themselves off the sky tower, taking in great panoramic views of the city from atop the old volcano of Mount Eden, and a fantastic exhibition of the work of British graffiti artist Banksy.

In just a month, and armed with our crappy-turned-beloved Nissan, we have witnessed nature's most spectacular creations - the glaciers, volcanoes, and caves to name just a few - gazed upon some of the world's rarest wildlife, and thrown ourselves into some of our most daring adventures to date.

New Zealand you have truly blown us away.


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